Downtown Merida was not always as slick as it seems today — filled with fashionable tables and tourists. Parque Hidalgo, a favorite small green plaza with a monument had a brick street passing in front of the Hotel Caribe and the Gran Hotel. Calesas parked there waiting for visitors — and the horses watered the area with their urine. And then someone would come to pour the Pinol and the piss would turn white. The combo was just as bad as the original.

In the place where we now have the interesting modern building called El Palacio de Musica, there was once a modern high-rise which before it was finished developed some construction defects. It was abandoned for a while and invaded by hippies. It was crooked and about the year I began riding down Calle 58 on my bike, a cornice fell off and killed a passing pedestrian.

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